Even if you follow the most detailed liner tutorials, your line often ends up too thick, breaks the shape of the eye and, instead of opening it, makes it fall. When you have drooping eyelids or mature eyes, the famous classic cat-eye often proves unforgiving.
On Instagram and TikTok, another method is popular: the reverse liner, also called reverse liner or reverse cat-eye. Popularized by professional makeup artist Charly Salvator, this technique promises a stretched look, even when the mobile eyelid almost disappears. What if the secret was simply moving the liner?
Why reverse liner enhances drooping eyelids
On a drooping eyelid, drawing a thick liner on the upper eyelid often cuts the comma in the crease and makes the eye smaller as soon as you blink. The reverse drooping eyeliner gets around this problem by working the makeup on the lower lash line, especially on the outer two thirds, which is detailed by several makeup artists cited by Vogue France and Belookin.
says professional makeup artist Charly Salvator in an Instagram video, cited by the media Voici. By following the natural line of the eyelid towards the tail of the eyebrow and concentrating the intensity on the outside of the eye, the look immediately appears more stretched.
Step-by-step reverse liner tutorial on the lower lash line
Charly Salvator begins by using a brown pencil which he applies to the outside of the lower lash line. He moves this line slightly outwards, then blends it with an angled brush before connecting it to the upper part of the eyelid to “smoke” the line, without ever advancing beyond the pupil.
He then adds an eye shadow in the same tone to shade and thicken the liner, keeping a smoky line, not a sharp line. The key step is to apply a slightly lighter shadow over it with a fluffy brush to create shading and avoid any lines. To finish, the makeup artist intensifies the outer corner with pencil, then adds a layer of mascara to the lashes for a stunning result.
Adapt the reverse liner to mature eyes and everyday life
On Edgar and Aufeminin, several experts recommend reverse eyeliner as an alternative to classic pencil after 50. A blendable but long-lasting pencil or gel liner, ideally waterproof, limits transfer to fine lines. Brown or chocolate shades soften the result, especially if you stick to the outer two thirds of the lower lash line.
For a very discreet effect, you can adopt a micro-liner version: an ultra-fine line that follows the lash line as closely as possible. About this minimalist approach, explains Alexis Ferro, professional makeup artist, in an interview with the media and reported by . Applied in reverse, this micro-line gives a lifted look in a few seconds, while remaining compatible with “no-make-up” makeup.
Is reverse liner really suitable for droopy eyelids?
Yes, because the line is placed under the eye and outwards, without breaking in the crease of the eyelid. By concentrating the color on the outer part, the look appears more stretched and less heavy than with classic liner on the upper eyelid.
What type of pencil should you choose for a reverse liner that doesn’t smudge?
Makeup artists recommend a blendable but long-lasting pencil or gel liner, preferably waterproof, especially if the eye tends to water. Brown and chocolate shades offer a softer finish and are ideal for everyday use.
Can you wear reverse liner after 50?
Yes, the technique is even particularly recommended on mature eyes. It visually lifts the eyes without emphasizing the fine lines of the upper eyelid, as long as you keep a smoky line and comfortable textures.
