In certain Parisian pharmacies, groups of American women fill their baskets with the same white and green tube. On their smartphones, TikTok videos scroll, all promising soothed and luminous skin thanks to a cream from France. The name comes up everywhere, almost like a beauty password.
For French women, Biafine rhymes more with sunburn than with the “glow” of a girl from LA. And yet, this French pharmacy product, highly regulated and for a long time almost unobtainable in the United States, has turned into an object of desire, carried by hashtags which have accumulated several million views. It remains to be understood what the Americans are projecting on this cult hit.
Biafine, the French summer basic that has become a cult cream
Born in 1971, Biafine is above all a skin emulsion classified as a medicine. In France, it is applied to superficial burns, severe sunburns or certain lesions after radiotherapy, never as a simple day cream. Its success is due to its perceived effectiveness and its almost systematic presence in family medicine cabinets.
Its very oily formula combines squalane, avocado oil and trolamine, which helps maintain skin hydration and calm inflammation in a damaged area. Sold for around $5 per tube in pharmacies, it has long been difficult to find outside France, whereas in the United States access is more complex and the price higher, which further fuels the “hidden treasure” effect.
Why do Americans fantasize about Biafine and French pharmacy?
French cosmetic products, particularly those from drugstores, have long attracted tourists. The European Union’s control over controversial ingredients gives the image of safer formulas than many American treatments, where regulations remain different. No wonder brands like La Roche-Posay, Avène, Bioderma or Biafine are a hit on TikTok, in the wake of the hashtag #frenchpharmacyskincare which exceeds 75 million views.
On TikTok, “French pharmacy haul” videos keep coming. Influencers like @glowwithava, followed by around 1.4 million subscribers, show how they apply a generous layer of Biafine on the face while talking about the “French girl” secret. And then the scarcity effect comes into play: long reserved for French pharmacies, the cream becomes a prized travel souvenir, which some bring back in batches for their friends back in the United States.
Biafine, medicine above all: what TikTok videos forget
Faced with this wave, dermatologists point out a key point: Biafine remains a medication designed for damaged skin, not a moisturizing cream to be used morning and evening. Its formula contains trolamine, reported as potentially irritating and suspected of long-term toxicity in case of repeated use, as well as parabens, preservatives with a discussed role in endocrine disruption.
The very occlusive texture, ideal for protecting a burn, can also promote blackheads and pimples on healthy skin. Cases of allergies, irritations and photosensitization have been described, with a risk of sunburn if exposed after application. Because basically, using Biafine as a day cream amounts to diverting a medical product from its intended purpose. For a routine inspired by the French pharmacy, pharmacists recommend moisturizing creams or restorative balms formulated as cosmetics by dermatologist brands, remembering to always read the instructions and, if in doubt, to seek the advice of a health professional.
Why does Biafine appeal so much to American women?
It combines several advantages in their eyes: image of French secret, promise of “multi-use” care, reassuring medical aura, affordable price in France and relative rarity in the United States, all amplified by TikTok.
Is Biafine a medicine or a cosmetic product?
In France, Biafine is registered as a medicine for skin application, intended for superficial burns and severe sunburns, and not as a day cream or classic cosmetic treatment.
Can we use Biafine as a daily facial moisturizer?
Specialists advise against this use: the formula is occlusive, contains trolamine and parabens, and has been designed for damaged skin, for limited periods. For daily hydration, it is better to choose a cosmetic cream and seek advice from a professional.
Sources
- Grazia
“Goodbye to the French pharmacy, cosmetic products from this country are a hit (and it’s not Korea)”
