For a long time, we chose our night cream at random, for its texture or its scent. Today, everything revolves around active ingredients, and retinol has established itself as the flagship vitamin A in routines from the age of 25 to refine skin texture. In recent months, however, another name has been popping up in skincare conversations: retinal. What is it exactly?
Presented as a star active ingredient of the moment, retinal promises, according to certain brands, almost flawless skin from the first month of use. In fact, it is a vitamin A derivative classified among skin bioactives, these ingredients which actually modify the biology of the skin. , explains Dr Ludovic Rousseau, dermatologist-venerologist, on Dermatonet. It remains to be understood how retinal positions itself compared to the well-known retinol.
Retinal and retinol, two retinoids derived from vitamin A
Retinoids include all vitamin A derivatives used on the skin. Dr Ludovic Rousseau recalls that retinol is an alcohol derived from this vitamin, precursor of retinoic acid, a biologically active form. In the skin, the conversion cascade occurs in this order: retinol to retinaldehyde, also called retinal, then to retinoic acid. The latter binds to nuclear receptors RAR and RXR and directly modulates the expression of numerous cutaneous genes.
By acting on these receptors, retinoic acid stimulates the synthesis of procollagen I and III, increases the proliferation of basal keratinocytes, slows down metalloproteinases which degrade collagen and normalizes melanogenesis. The studies it compiles show a reduction in superficial and deep fine lines, an attenuation of pigment spots and photoaging, an anti-acne action by normalization of follicular keratinization, but also a clear improvement in skin texture and radiance. The whole point of retinal comes from the fact that it is found just before this active form in the chain.
What is retinal and how is it different from retinol?
Concretely, retinal or retinaldehyde is a molecule derived from vitamin A which belongs to the same family as retinol. Beauty sources describe it as particularly appreciated for its effects on acne, cell renewal and signs of skin aging, while stimulating the production of collagen, a key parameter for the elasticity and radiance of the skin. Its specificity lies in its metabolism: the skin must transform retinol in two successive steps to produce retinoic acid, while only one step is sufficient for retinal. This biological shortcut explains why it can act more quickly on the texture of the skin and on wrinkles, fine lines or crow’s feet.
Dr Ludovic Rousseau offers a simple scale of topical retinoids, in terms of relative potency, status and tolerance:
- Tretinoin or retinoic acid: maximum potency, prescription drug, often irritating.
- Retinaldehyde: high potency, available in cosmetics, with better tolerance than tretinoin.
- Retinol: intermediate power, well-documented cosmetic, good tolerance if introduction remains gradual.
- Retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate: lower potency, cosmetic with excellent tolerance.
In this context, it is not surprising that some experts present retinal as more powerful than retinol, even if the latter remains one of the best studied anti-aging active ingredients.
How to safely introduce retinal into a routine
For topical retinoids like retinol, Dr. Ludovic Rousseau recommends starting at a concentration of 0.025 to 0.05%, once or twice a week, then gradually increasing over 6 to 12 weeks to a daily tolerance around 0.1 to 0.3%. It specifies that concentrations greater than 0.3% require dermatological monitoring, and that application must be done in the evening only, because retinol is photosensitive and photosensitizing. This specialist also reminds that this type of active ingredient can cause irritation and that it is better to start at a low dose and avoid the sun. For retinal, located in the same family, the same principles of progressiveness and caution apply, especially on sensitive or already weakened skin.
The contraindications remain strict for all retinoids, including retinal: he summarizes them as follows. The dermatologist also describes several combinations to avoid, such as retinol and AHA or BHA during the same session, due to cumulative irritation and possible alteration of the lipid film, or the combination of retinol and benzoyl peroxide which results in mutual inactivation of the molecules. Conversely, he mentions winning routines, for example vitamin C in the morning and retinoid in the evening, or even niacinamide and retinol to reduce irritation while strengthening the effect on spots. Applied with this logic and without multiplying exfoliants, retinal becomes a serious ally for simultaneously treating skin texture, imperfections and first signs of aging.
Is retinal really more powerful than retinol?
Available data places retinal just after retinoic acid in the vitamin A conversion chain, while retinol is one step further. In practice, retinal must go through only one step to become retinoic acid, compared to two for retinol, which can result in faster action, although tolerance and regularity of application remain decisive.
Is retinal suitable for acne-prone skin?
Yes, the reference texts cite acne among the major indications for retinoids, thanks to the normalization of follicular keratinization and cell renewal. Retinal, which belongs to this family, is therefore of particular interest to skin prone to imperfections, and in case of doubt about a skin reaction, dermatological advice is recommended.
Is retinal compatible with pregnancy or breastfeeding?
No. Dr. Ludovic Rousseau places pregnancy and breastfeeding among the absolute contraindications for all retinoids, even when used locally, as does already irritated skin or a recent sunburn.
