You run your fingers over your cheeks, your forehead or your chin and you feel tiny reliefs under the skin. To the naked eye, they are sometimes almost invisible, but they give the face a grainy appearance. The reflex may be to want to pierce them, thinking that a little sebum or impurities will eventually come out. However, nothing comes, even after several attempts. This phenomenon is common and can be explained in particular by the presence of closed comedones, a very common form of acne.
Closed comedones form when dead cells and sebum accumulate in a hair follicle whose opening remains blocked. Unlike blackheads, which oxidize on contact with air and take on a dark color, these small imperfections remain covered by a thin layer of skin. They usually take the form of small whitish or flesh-colored bumps, with no visible opening. As their contents cannot be easily evacuated, trying to pierce them yourself is often ineffective and especially risks irritating the skin.
How to recognize closed comedones and differentiate them from other pimples?
Not all small pimples under the skin are closed comedones. Several skin problems can cause similar relief, but they are not treated in the same way.
- Closed comedones: They look like tiny flesh-colored or whitish bumps, often grouped together on the forehead, cheeks or chin. They are usually neither painful nor very red.
- Milium grains: these small superficial cysts appear in the form of pearly white dots, firm to the touch, frequently around the eyes and on the cheekbones. They contain keratin, not just a mixture of sebum and dead cells. They do not pierce like a classic button.
- Inflammatory acne: the spots are red, sometimes sensitive, and can develop into a pustule containing pus. Deeper lesions may also be painful.
- Folliculitis: this inflammation of the hair follicles can cause small red bumps or pimples sometimes topped with a white head. Itching may be present.
- Small pimples linked to irritation: certain cosmetic products, friction or skin reactions can cause an irregular texture, sometimes accompanied by redness or tingling.
The location, appearance and associated sensations provide clues, but do not always allow a diagnosis to be made with certainty. If the pimples appear suddenly, itch a lot, become painful or persist despite a suitable routine, it is better to seek the advice of a dermatologist rather than multiplying anti-blemish treatments.
Why should you avoid piercing these little pimples?
Although the temptation is great, squeezing pimples under the skin that won’t come out is rarely a good idea. When a comedo is closed, its contents do not have a sufficient opening to easily drain. By insisting with your fingers or nails, you risk traumatizing the surrounding tissues without being able to eliminate the obstruction.
This manipulation can lead to several consequences:
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More inflammation: the pressure exerted irritates the skin and can make the pimple red, swollen or painful.
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Persistent marks: repeated handling can cause pigment spots, especially on skin that marks easily.
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Scars: when the skin is severely traumatized, scars may appear.
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An infection: hands and nails can introduce bacteria into a weakened lesion.
In other words, the more you push something out, the more likely you are to make the imperfection visible. If you have already tried to pop these pimples, there is no need to feel guilty: now leave the area alone, clean it gently and avoid irritating products until the skin returns to its usual state. If significant redness, pain or swelling occurs, seek advice from a healthcare professional.
What treatments should I use to eliminate small pimples under the skin?
The right strategy is to act gradually on the factors that promote clogged pores, without trying to strip the skin. If the reliefs correspond to closed comedones, certain cosmetic active ingredients can help improve their appearance.
1. Focus on salicylic acid
Salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), is a particularly interesting active ingredient for skin prone to blackheads. Fat-soluble, it can penetrate areas rich in sebum and help unclog pores by promoting the elimination of dead cells.
You can start with a low concentration treatment, following the manufacturer’s instructions and using it a few times a week depending on your skin’s tolerance. If irritation, tightness or redness appear, space out applications or stop using the product. No need to multiply exfoliants to accelerate results: excessive use risks altering the skin barrier.
2. Consider a suitable retinoid
Retinoids, which act on cell renewal, are one of the reference treatments for comedonal acne. They can help prevent new blockages from forming and gradually improve skin texture.
Retinal or retinol are present in some cosmetics, while medicated retinoids, such as adapalene, may be offered depending on the situation and applicable regulations. The choice of product depends on the nature of the lesions, their importance and your skin tolerance. A healthcare professional will be able to direct you towards the most appropriate option.
Warning: topical retinoids should be avoided during pregnancy and if planning to become pregnant, as a precaution. They can also cause dryness and irritation, especially at first. It is better to introduce only one new active ingredient at a time and seek advice from a doctor or pharmacist if you have any doubts.
3. Choose a non-comedogenic moisturizer
Contrary to popular belief, skin with imperfections also needs hydration. A suitable cream helps preserve the skin barrier, especially if you use exfoliating or anti-acne active ingredients.
Choose a light, well-tolerated formula that is indicated as non-comedogenic, without considering this statement as an absolute guarantee. It is not necessary to eliminate all oils or fatty substances: tolerance depends on the complete formula and your skin.
4. Don’t neglect sun protection
Broad-spectrum sun protection, SPF 30 minimum, ideally SPF 50 if you are prone to pigment marks, is particularly useful when using potentially irritating active ingredients. It helps limit the effects of UV rays and the risk of seeing certain marks darken.
What routine should you adopt to find smoother skin?
To avoid aggravating small pimples under the skin, it is better to focus on a short and regular routine rather than a succession of targeted treatments. Here is a simple base to adapt according to the needs of your skin.
The morning
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Clean your face with a gentle cleanser, without rubbing.
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Apply a moisturizer suited to your skin.
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Finish with broad-spectrum SPF 30 to 50 sun protection.
The evening
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Remove your makeup if necessary, then cleanse your face gently.
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Use a targeted active ingredient, such as salicylic acid, at a frequency compatible with your tolerance.
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Apply your moisturizer.
Avoid starting multiple exfoliants, a retinoid and purifying masks at the same time. This buildup can cause irritation and make it more difficult to identify the responsible product in the event of a reaction. Grain scrubs, home extractions and harsh homemade recipes should also be avoided.
Finally, be patient: improvement in comedonal acne often takes several weeks, sometimes eight to twelve weeks with appropriate treatment. If the pimples persist, spread, leave marks or bother you on a daily basis, a dermatologist will be able to confirm their nature and offer personalized treatment. Milium seeds, in particular, do not necessarily respond to the same care and may require extraction carried out by a professional.
FAQ: everything you need to know about small pimples under the skin
Why do I have small pimples under my skin without whiteheads?
These may be closed comedones, which form when sebum and dead cells block a hair follicle. As the opening is covered by the skin, no contents are visible or easily extractable. However, other causes, such as milia or folliculitis, can produce similar relief.
How to make small pimples disappear under the skin quickly?
There is no miracle solution to make them disappear instantly. A gentle routine, combined with a suitable active ingredient such as salicylic acid, can gradually improve blackheads. Avoid breaking them or using multiple exfoliants: this risks worsening the inflammation. Generally allow several weeks to see improvement.
Are the little pimples under the skin whiteheads? Not necessarily. Closed comedones are sometimes called whiteheads because they are blocked pores covered by a thin layer of skin. Milium grains are small cysts containing keratin. Their appearance may be similar, but their origin and treatment differ. What product to use against pimples under the skin? Salicylic acid can help unclog pores, while certain retinoids are used to treat comedonal acne. A suitable moisturizer and sun protection complete the routine. The choice, however, depends on the nature of the pimples and the sensitivity of your skin. If in doubt, seek advice from a dermatologist or pharmacist. When should you consult a dermatologist for small pimples under the skin? Check if the pimples persist despite several weeks of appropriate care, become painful, are accompanied by significant redness or leave scars. Medical advice is also recommended if the lesions appear suddenly, itch badly or spread. The dermatologist will be able to identify their origin and offer appropriate treatment.
Not necessarily. Closed comedones are sometimes called whiteheads because they are clogged pores covered by a thin layer of skin. Milium grains are small cysts containing keratin. Their appearance may be similar, but their origin and treatment differ.
What product to use against pimples under the skin?
Salicylic acid can help unclog pores, while certain retinoids are used to treat comedonal acne. A suitable moisturizer and sun protection complete the routine. The choice, however, depends on the nature of the pimples and the sensitivity of your skin. If in doubt, seek advice from a dermatologist or pharmacist.
When should you consult a dermatologist for small pimples under the skin?
Check if the pimples persist despite several weeks of appropriate care, become painful, are accompanied by significant redness or leave scars. Medical advice is also recommended if the lesions appear suddenly, itch badly or spread. The dermatologist will be able to identify their origin and offer appropriate treatment.
