In Patrimoniu, at the foot of Cap Corse, the rows of vines are filled with pruning shears while summer is still in full swing. This year, some grape varieties reached maturity almost a month earlier than usual, with plots of Vermentinu harvested as early as August 3 in Nebbiu. For a vineyard used to cutting the bunches around mid-September, the difference is impressive and shakes up the benchmarks of winegrower families.
Because behind these early harvests, there are heatwaves which start early, last longer and leave the soil thirsty. Professionals must decide, sometimes day after day, whether they allow the berries to continue to concentrate sugars and aromas or whether they harvest more quickly to preserve freshness and balance. The whole question is there.
In Patrimoniu, early harvests shake up the calendar
Old-timers say that the Patrimoniu harvest used to begin around September 14. In a few decades, the calendar has shifted: in some recent years, the first cuts on the AOC Patrimonio were given as early as the week of August 8, with a start around August 18 for other areas. The last vintages have confirmed this trend, to the point of establishing a real record for precocity.
On his 15 hectares of Vermentinu, Nicolas Mariotti Bindi, for example, chose to start the harvest on August 3, about a month ahead of his usual schedule. The Patrimoniu vineyard, which concentrates most of the commune’s resources, finds itself on the front line facing extreme heat and drought, between sea and maquis, in the Gulf of Saint Florent.
How Patrimoniu winegrowers adapt without irrigating
A strong feature of the appellation: the AOC Patrimonio specifications prohibit irrigation of the vines and synthetic herbicides. It is therefore impossible to compensate for the lack of water by watering. Winegrowers rely on deep roots, the selection of suitable grape varieties such as Vermentinu and Niellucciu, and high planting densities of up to 7,600 vines per hectare to push the roots to descend deep in search of moisture.
Added to this are very concrete field practices: controlled grassing to limit evaporation, tillage of the soil as lightly as possible, foliage kept above the clusters to create a natural shade. During heatwaves, ripeness checks increase, with almost daily visits to the rows to taste the berries and monitor the sugar-acid balance before setting the final harvest date.
What a face for the Patrimonio wines after these August harvests
The most visible consequence of extreme heat remains the drop in quantity. The grapes come out smaller, the clusters looser, and the volumes harvested decrease significantly in certain sectors of Patrimoniu. Oenologists, however, note juices that are often very concentrated, with an acidity considered satisfactory when the harvest has been sufficiently anticipated.
To preserve the fresh and saline style of the whites of Vermentinu like the structure of the reds of Niellucciu, the cellars are organized: harvest at dawn to bring in the still fresh bunches, rapid pressing, thermo-regulated vats to keep fermentation temperatures low. In the cellars of the new generation of Patrimoniu winegrowers, from the Arena family to the Marfisi family via the Santamaria and Mariotti Bindi estates, every detail counts so that these August harvests produce wines that remain faithful to the terroir.
Why do the harvests start so early in Patrimoniu?
The repetition of heatwaves and drought accelerates the maturity of the grapes. In a few years, the start of the harvest has gone from mid-September to the beginning or mid-August depending on the plot.
Are the Patrimoniu vines irrigated during the summer?
No, the AOC Patrimonio specifications prohibit irrigation. Winegrowers rely on deep roots, planting density and carefully worked soils to manage the lack of water.
Do early harvests degrade the quality of Patrimonio wines?
The volumes harvested are decreasing, but the grapes are often very concentrated. When the harvest date is chosen well, the wines maintain freshness and a beautiful aroma.
How do winegrowers protect grape pickers during high heat?
The days start very early, sometimes at night, to avoid the hottest hours. The teams take more breaks, hydration and shade as soon as the sun becomes too strong.
