Between flattering neon lights in stores, filters in product photos and veins that we never really look at, finding your ideal foundation shade often feels like a test of patience. A shade that’s a little too pink, a poorly chosen undertone or a foundation that darkens during the day is enough to set the entire makeup.
However, Clarins experts interviewed by *Vogue* Spain magazine and makeup artist Charly Salvator describe the same logic: a simple three-step rule that applies both in stores and online, for a color that blends into the skin without a mask effect.
Step 1: skin tone and undertone, the base for your foundation shade
Above all, Charly Salvator advises determining the intensity of your skin: light, medium or dark. He reminds us that we can sometimes oscillate between two levels: , specifies the makeup artist in TF1 INFO. This first step already makes it possible to reduce the number of bottles to look at, both in stores and on brand websites.
Next comes the undertone, which does not depend on the skin color but on the depth of the shade. Warm undertone: the skin leans towards gold, olive or yellow. Cold undertone: pink or bluish reflections. Neutral undertone: a discreet mix of the two. To guide, the makeup artist summarizes: , explains Charly Salvator, before specifying that in this case, . Conversely, with a warm undertone, he describes. And for the neutral, he takes himself as an example: , he confides.
Step 2: Test the foundation in the right place and in the right light
Many still apply foundation on the back of the hand, even though the skin tone differs from the face. Experts recommend drawing a thin strip of product along the jawline, straddling the face and neck. The right shade is the one that seems to disappear visually, with no demarcation between the two areas.
Artificial lighting can distort perception. It is therefore useful to check the result in natural light, near a window or by leaving the store for a few seconds. Online, the same logic applies virtually: you start by filtering the shades by intensity and undertone, then you compare your skin to models or swatches presented on arms or a white background. It is in this spirit that Charly Salvator points out that his method works just as well online as in store.
Step 3: monitor oxidation before validating its shade
Last trap: certain products oxidize, that is to say they darken slightly upon contact with air and sebum. Specialists advise waiting five to ten minutes after application before making a decision. During this time, we let our face live, we talk, we move, then we observe the overall result in a mirror with good light.
To know if the chosen color is really the right one, a few guidelines help:
- the color blends into the face and neck, without visible demarcation;
- the foundation does not turn too yellow or too pink after a few minutes;
- the complexion remains even in daylight.
If everything comes together, the color can be kept. Otherwise, adjust by half a tone, or change the formula if the product tends to oxidize too much. And to make your purchases even more secure, some online shade finders already compare your skin color to tens of thousands of shades; they serve as a starting point, but the real validation remains this three-step rule applied at home.
How to know your skin undertone to choose the right shade of foundation?
We start by looking at the veins on the wrist in natural light: rather blue for a cold undertone, rather green for a warm undertone, between the two for a neutral undertone. We can also observe our reaction to the sun and the jewelry that flatters us the most.
Where to test your foundation to find an ideal foundation shade?
The most reliable area remains the jaw, straddling the face and the neck. We apply a small strip of product, then we check in natural light that the color blends in without demarcation.
Why does my foundation darken after application?
Some foundations oxidize on contact with air and sebum, causing them to darken slightly. It is recommended to wait five to ten minutes before validating a color, then adjust if necessary.
