Between the rocks of Baux-de-Provence and the hills of Var, a question animates haute cuisine enthusiasts: in Provence, who really reigns over the 3 Michelin star restaurants? Two chefs crystallize this discreet duel.
On one side, Glenn Viel, at L’Oustau de Baumanière in Baux-de-Provence, a legendary institution. On the other, Fabien Ferré, chef of La Table du Castellet, promoted to triple Michelin stars at the age of 35 in 2024. The face-to-face goes far beyond simple ego rivalry.
Provence, playground of the 3 stars of Glenn Viel and Fabien Ferré
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur today has a unique density of three-star restaurants, from Menton to Marseille. Alongside L’Oustau de Baumanière and La Table du Castellet, Mirazur, AM and Le Petit Nice form a golden triangle for mobile gourmets.
This regional weight confirms this: L’Oustau de Baumanière is in its seventh year with three stars since 2020, La Table du Castellet in its third since 2024. The duel is therefore being played out in the very heart of the exclusive French 3-star club.
Glenn Viel at Oustau de Baumanière: the heritage of the Alpilles
Founded in 1945, L’Oustau de Baumanière earned one star in 1949, two in 1952, three in 1954, before losing them in 1990. Appointed chef in 2015, Glenn Viel returned the house to three stars on January 27, 2020, after thirty years of waiting.
Originally, the table served generous cuisine, leg of lamb from the Alpilles in a crust, gratin dauphinois or millefeuille. Today, the writing is more refined: red mullet with farmhouse cream, blue lobster, suckling lamb with lemon thyme, sublimating AOC olive oils from the Vallée des Baux and organic vegetables from the garden.
Fabien Ferré at La Table du Castellet: the marine and plant prodigy
In Castellet, in the Var, Fabien Ferré takes over La Table du Castellet after working with Christophe Bacquié. On March 18, 2024, he was awarded three stars directly: at 35, he became the youngest three-star chef in France, ahead of Glenn Viel.
Her cuisine tells the story of a marine and plant-based Provence, based on local fishing, neighboring wines and menus centered on plants or the sea. Facing her, the world of Glenn Viel’s Alpilles, olives and lamb, makes the Viel Ferré duel less of a fight than a contrast of sensibilities.
Who is the youngest 3 Michelin star chef?
Fabien Ferré obtained three stars at the age of 35 in 2024, at La Table du Castellet.
When did L’Oustau de Baumanière regain its third star?
The restaurant regained its third star on January 27, 2020, after losing it in 1990.
How do the cuisines of Glenn Viel and Fabien Ferré differ?
Glenn Viel embodies an earthy Provence of the Alpilles, olive oils and garden vegetables, while Fabien Ferré favors a marine and plant-based Provence turned towards the Mediterranean.
