Laces no longer just tighten our sneakers. This season, they go up the legs and mark the return of a cult silhouette: Jane Birkin-style lace-up boots. We thought they were in line with the slightly grainy photos of the 70s, but they reappear everywhere, from the street to the catwalks. A reappearance far from trivial.
Between nostalgia and the search for sustainable pieces, the lace-up boot ticks a lot of boxes. We saw it at the Ami fall-winter 2024-2025 show in bright yellow, then at Prada fall-winter 2026-2027, revisited with a slightly pointed toe and romantic square heel. She then appeared on Instagram, adopted by the cool girls and by Isabelle Ithurburu in the English rain.
Why Jane Birkin-style lace-up boots are making a comeback
This desire for lace-up boots is part of a broader return to the codes of the 1960s and 1970s. A young generation who did not know these decades of protests and fantasized freedom is taking to them like a game. Micro-skirts, bohemian hippie spirit, colorful monochrome suits are making a comeback, and with them high boots, often white or laced, especially on the British side.
The creators validate the movement. At Ami, the high yellow boot with frontal lacing sets the scene for a strong silhouette from 2024. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons play the Victorian card with a slightly pointed toe, a stable square heel and light colors. The lacing becomes a graphic feature that can be left visible on the calf or visible under a midi skirt.
From Victorian boots to seventies icon Jane Birkin
Before embodying the seventies spirit, the laced high boot has a long history. In the Victorian and then Edwardian era, women favored these models closed with buttons or precise lacing, made from noble materials. They cover the leg, structure the ankle and outline a slim foot. This silhouette clearly inspires contemporary versions, with an upper close to the calf and a moderate heel.
In the 1970s, Jane Birkin adopted these lace-up boots and often wore them in 1970 in very simple looks that left the shoe at the center. Its look, both relaxed and precise, remains a reference. The trend then peaked in the 2000s, a decade of stylistic daring, before returning today by combining Victorian heritage, rock-bohemian spirit and memories of the 2000s.
How to wear Jane Birkin-inspired lace-up boots today
In real life, lace-up boots aren’t just for the catwalk. On February 9, 2026, during the Six Nations Tournament in England, host Isabelle Ithurburu posted on Instagram a little black dress, mid-length dark gray wool peacoat, opaque tights and high-top black leather ankle boots with laces. An outfit designed for rain and cold, but which maintains a rock look and is very wearable.
This type of shoe has everything to become an essential: waterproof, covering the ankle, adding a few centimeters to smaller silhouettes. To adopt the spirit of Jane Birkin lace-up boots without feeling disguised, you can combine them with a little black dress and a straight coat for the office, with a long printed dress for a bohemian look, or with raw jeans and a cozy sweater for the weekend.
How to choose the height of your lace-up boots?
To remain discreet, choose mid-calf ankle boots. High lace-up boots create a more statement effect with midi or mini skirts.
How to wear lace-up boots when you’re little?
Models below the knee, with a medium heel, visually lengthen the leg. Tights or jeans of the same color extend the line.
How to care for leather lace-up boots?
After rain, brush the leather then regularly apply a nourishing milk. Storing boots upright or padded limits deep creases.
