In the facial care aisles, you just have to take a look to see it everywhere: collagen has become the star active ingredient in creams, serums and even food supplements supposed to smooth wrinkles and restore bounce to the skin. For mature skin, the stakes are even higher, between loss of firmness, marked features and less luminous complexion. There remains a real question: how to navigate among all these promises so as not to choose your collagen treatment at random?
Mature skin and collagen: the right types to favor
First reflex when choosing a collagen treatment for mature skin: look at the type of collagen used. In its “raw” form, the collagen molecule is very large and remains mainly on the surface of the skin. This is why the most interesting treatments mention collagen peptides, sometimes referred to as “hydrolyzed collagen” or “fragmented collagen”. These smaller fragments are better recognized by the skin and can act as signals to restart the natural production of collagen, but also elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Orally too, the principle remains the same. The collagen is then fragmented into peptides to be well assimilated by the body. , explains Clémentine Denis, medical manager of Richelet laboratories, cited by Femina. In supplements, this collagen is always of animal origin (cattle or fish), with comparable assimilation at equal molecular weight. On the cosmetics side, we also see mentions like or, or even or: these are ingredients of plant origin capable of stimulating the synthesis of collagen by the skin, and not collagen in the strict sense.
Collagen treatment for mature skin: the active ingredients that really make the difference
Another key point for mature skin: collagen works much better when combined with other targeted active ingredients. Experts often advise choosing formulas that combine collagen peptides and ingredients known to boost firmness or radiance. Among them, we find above all:
- vitamin C, an antioxidant, which also helps stimulate collagen synthesis and brings a boost of light to the complexion;
- retinol or its derivatives, which encourage the activity of collagen and elastin-producing cells, useful for established wrinkles;
- hyaluronic acid, to intensely moisturize, smooth the skin surface and reinforce the desired “rebound” effect;
- possibly fruit acids in low concentration, to promote cell renewal.
The format of the product also matters. A collagen serum, generally more concentrated, is applied before the cream to target wrinkles and sagging areas, especially in the evening. A cream enriched with collagen, often more comfortable, supports the skin barrier and is well suited to mature skin which tends to dry out. And for a one-off boost of radiance, a collagen mask left on for a few hours or overnight can visually smooth features, ideal before a special occasion or when the skin appears particularly tired. It is often by combining these formats that we find our favorite collagen treatment.
Results, collagen supplements and promises to keep in mind
Last but not least: keep realistic expectations. A collagen cream will not make deep wrinkles disappear overnight, even if hydration and comfort sometimes improve very quickly. The effects on firmness, density and the appearance of wrinkles require regular application, over several weeks, as part of an overall routine (gentle cleansing, sun protection, hydration). To limit disappointments, it is better to favor brands that publish clear clinical study results, with data on the reduction of wrinkles or the increase in firmness, and take into account dermatological opinions when possible.
And then some people choose to complete their topical treatment with a collagen supplement to drink or in capsules. Available forms range from dilutable powders to ready-to-use shots. In practice, doses of around 2.5 g per day are often recommended for young skin, while mature skin will be recommended doses of around 10 g per day, preferably on an empty stomach. Many programs rely on cures of around three months, to be repeated two or three times a year. No study has really decided on the best combination between supplements and cosmetics, but their actions seem to complement each other, the treatments acting on the epidermis and the dermis, and the supplementation nourishing the skin from the inside at the same time as the bones, cartilage and muscles.
