Drawing an eyeliner line when your eyelids hang a little over your eye is often a hassle: the comma breaks in the crease, the liner smudges and your eyes appear more tired. On Instagram and TikTok, another way of applying the pencil is nevertheless essential among the pros: the reverse eyeliner, designed precisely to open the eyes on drooping eyelids. A trick that shakes up our reflexes.
Because basically, when the fixed eyelid partially covers the mobile eyelid, the classic line on the upper lash line is barely visible and makes the area heavier. And then, after 40 or 50 years, we are especially looking for a lifting effect and makeup that does not mark fine lines. This is where reverse eyeliner comes into play.
Inverted eyeliner and droopy eyelids: what makeup artists say
In a video shared on Instagram, makeup artist Charly Salvator explains: , he details in a tutorial relayed by Femme Actuelle. He reminds us that classic features tend to weigh down drooping eyes.
With this placement under the eye, makeup becomes more lifting: according to him, this simple and quick look gives. For her part, the makeup artist to the stars Lan Nguyen-Grealis recommends, for drooping eyelids and eyes after 50, a technique that she considers ideal for enlarging the look of mature eyes, as she explains to *Who What Wear*, cited by Aufeminin.
Reverse eyeliner: the foolproof method step by step
Charly Salvator shows a very precise step by step to achieve this reverse eyeliner on heavy eyelids:
- with a pencil, often brown, draw a line on the outside of the lower lash line going slightly upwards;
- blend with an angled brush, keeping the material up to the middle of the lower lash line;
- with the same brush, connect this line to the outer upper lash line to form the liner;
- thicken with a coordinating powder shadow and a fluffy brush: , he explains;
- add a slightly lighter shadow in the same tone to avoid, intensify the outer corner with pencil then apply the mascara.
Lan Nguyen-Grealis recommends using a pencil instead of liquid eyeliner, she tells *Who What Wear*. She also recommends applying makeup only to the last two thirds of the lower lash line and keeping a very fine line to enlarge the look as much as possible.
Drooping eyelids after 50: eyeliner mistakes to avoid
When the eyelid droops, certain makeup reflexes harden the look. Aufeminin points out that a thick line along the entire length of the lash line closes the eye, just like following the natural line downwards. For a lift effect, it is better to orient the comma upwards, taking the end of the eyebrow as a guide, and avoid pulling on the eyelid: the eyeliner must be drawn with the eye open.
Application to the entire lower lash line is also not recommended, as it visually reduces the size of the eye. The advice from the pros is to concentrate on the outer corner, blending slightly for a softer finish. Another key point highlighted by Aufeminin: ban liners that are too liquid or pencils that are too oily, which smudge easily on mobile eyelids, and favor waterproof and long-lasting formulas. For variety, makeup artist Michèle Clausen also offers the halo eye, with iridescent shadow in the center of the mobile eyelid.
How to choose your pencil for reverse eyeliner on drooping eyelids?
Lan Nguyen-Grealis advises using an easy-to-blend pencil rather than a liquid eyeliner, choosing a lasting texture, ideally waterproof, to avoid smudging on drooping eyelids.
Where to place the reverse eyeliner line to open up the eyes?
Makeup artists recommend applying makeup to the bottom lash line only for the last two thirds, with a slight tip at the outer corner connecting to the top lash line to stretch the eye.
Is reverse eyeliner suitable after 50?
According to Lan Nguyen-Grealis, reverse eyeliner is particularly suitable after age 50, because it enhances a drooping eyelid and helps to lengthen and open the eyes without weighing them down.
What eyeliner mistakes to avoid with drooping eyelids?
Pros advise against too thick lines, downward-facing commas, makeup on the entire lower lash line, pulling on the eyelid and textures that are too liquid or too oily.
