In the saturated universe of anti-aging cosmetics, a molecule out of the shadows begins to win in high-end formulas: Bakuchiol. Extract from an Indian plant used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine, this natural asset is now praised as a softer alternative to retinol. Less irritating, just as effective, perfectly tolerated by sensitive skin, Bakuchiol would have everything to please. But does this promise really hold the road?
An old natural asset … with rediscovered virtues
Bakuchiol is not a laboratory creation. It is extracted from the seeds of PSORALA Corylifoliaa medicinal plant found in traditional Indian and Chinese pharmacopoeia. It was in the 1960s that the molecule was isolated, but it was only recently that it entered the radar of cosmetic brands.
This renewed interest is explained by an enticing promise : that of offering the same benefits as retinol reduction of wrinkles, improvement of skin texture, radiance of the complexion without its well -known side effects (scam, redness, sensitivity to the sun). In 2014, a study published in theInternational Journal of Cosmetic Science threw a pavement in the pond: Bakuchiol would have an efficiency comparable to that of retinol on the reduction of wrinkles and pigment spots … but without any irritation.
This conclusion, supported by other research conducted since, was the starting point for rapid adoption by the cosmetic industry. Brands like Herbivore, Typology and Olehenriksen have integrated the asset into serums and creams intended for sensitive skin, often positioned in the Clean Beauty segment.
Retinol vs Bakuchiol: What concrete results for the skin?
On paper, the Bakuchiol ticks all the boxes. But what about the reality of mature, reactive or marked by acne skin? Unlike retinol, Bakuchiol does not cause irritation Because it is not a derivative of vitamin A. This makes it a viable option for pregnant women, fragile skins and high phototypes.
According to a comparative clinical study conducted in 2018 on 44 patients, the Bakuchiol’s biquotidid application at 0.5 % has shown a significant reduction in fine lines, spots and better uniformity of the complexion After 12 weeks. With equal efficiency, the participants treated in the Bakuchiol reported less scattering, tightness and redness than those treated with retinol.
But beware: the concentrations used play a crucial role. To obtain visible effects, it is necessary at least 0.5 to 1 % of bakuchiol In a formula, which is not always specified on the packaging. And not all products are created equal.
Here are the key points to check before joining the bakuchiol in its routine:
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Asset concentration : Prefer 1 %formulas.
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Adapted texture : the serums are better absorbed than creams.
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Association possible : Bakuchiol can be combined with AHAs or vitamin C, unlike retinol.
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Daily use : It can be applied morning and evening, without any particular solar precaution.
A lasting trend or a fashion effect?
Carried by the Clean Beauty wave, the Bakuchiol has become in a few years the darling of sensitive skin and Skincare influencers. Its commercial success is in doubt: the number of products containing the asset has exploded since 2020. And Google research around this keyword jumped +400 % in three years.
Bakuchiol is promising, but clinical evidence is still limited. For some skins, bakuchiol can be a very good alternative, but it will not completely replace retinol, especially on acne or deep wrinkles.
Between scientific prudence and marketing excitement, the truth is undoubtedly between the two. Bakuchiol Do not outdo retinolbut offers a precious solution for all those who do not support it.
Photo credit: @Ohmyskin
