In Provins, at the foot of the medieval César tower, a small plot of vines clings to the old ramparts. Only twenty-five acres, planted nine years ago, which the passerby can barely guess in the heart of the medieval town. However, this corner of the hill could well tell the story of the future of Ile-de-France wine.
In the middle of the rows, Patrice Bersac, president of the winegrowers’ union of the Île-de-France region, has been harvesting these vines himself without any phytosanitary product since the beginning. , he confides to France 3, talking about these grape varieties still unknown to the general public.
In Provins, a micro-plot of resistant grape varieties in Île-de-France
On only twelve acres are lined up Cabernet Cortis, Monarch, Muscaris, Solaris, Souvignier gris, Pinot Kors, plus a few vines of Johanniter, Sauvignac, Divico or Régent. Objective: test their behavior without treatment. , assures Patrice Bersac.
he observes, they often stick to the chardonnay – pinot noir duo. However, he reminds us that Île-de-France has long welcomed Greek, Portuguese, Spanish and Italian grape varieties. For him, this plot reactivates a historical diversity that the IGP “wines of Île-de-France”, obtained in 2021, is beginning to recognize.
Harvests without pesticides, but under pressure from climate change
This heatwave year, with almost four times less water than a normal year, the clusters are less loaded and the berries smaller. Using a refractometer, Patrice Bersac notes 11.3 degrees of potential alcohol for the Monarch and 17 for the Cabernet Cortis, a sign of spectacular concentration.
Despite the resistance of the plants, the yield fell by around 40%. Further south, David, a winegrower near Perpignan, says he sold his vines because, he explains to France 3, and that.
Between identity of appellations and urgency to adapt grape varieties
For this former professor in BTSA wines and spirits, these trials also show the economic interest of resistant grape varieties, which require much less treatment. He believes that they meet a strong demand for organic products, while costing less, but that winegrowers will still take years to adopt them and deplores: .
However, there is no question of sweeping everything away. , recalls Patrice Bersac, attached to the profile of each appellation. In Burgundy, Elsa Matrot and Thomas Berthelemot are moving in the same direction: , they explain to La Revue du vin de France, while Meursault and Viré-Clessé are already testing new grape varieties.
Why try these new grape varieties?
To limit treatments and prepare the climate.
What does the Provins experimental plot show?
That they are still producing, despite -40% yield.
Will these grape varieties replace Chardonnay and Pinot Noir?
No, the objective is to adapt the assemblies without changing the identity.
